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Writer's pictureF(earth)er Magazine

It’s More Than Just Mascara

By: Yasmine B.


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The makeup industry is booming. With what feels like an abundance of choice between products, brands, and more, the global cosmetic industry is estimated to reach a worth of $463.5 billion by 2027. That’s a lot of money, a lot of makeup, and a lot of environmental consequences.


From its creation, the origins of makeup create vast amounts of waste and damage natural resources. Water is the beauty industry’s most used ingredient and concerns for the future ask if water demand will soon outstrip supply (Bridget March, Harper Bazaar). Ingredients can be sourced unsustainably, also according to March of Harper Bazaar, harvesting “palm oil, used in approximately half of all consumer goods, is causing widespread deforestation plus the extinction of many animal species.”


Beyond our perception, makeup continues to cause environmental harm even after we rinse it all away. Toxic chemicals flow down our drains and out into the world’s oceans where they continue to affect aquatic species. A few examples entail:


  • Exfoliating microbeads and cosmetic glitters are common microplastics which quickly accumulate in our waterways and pose a health risk to wildlife. These bits of plastic can be found not only in exfoliating washes and chunky eyeshadows, but also toothpaste, sunscreen, eyeliner, deodorant, and lip gloss (CVSkinlabs, 2016). When consumed by wildlife, these can accumulate and destroy their digestive tracts.


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  • Sulfates, like sodium lauryl sulfate, are used to create toothpastes, shampoos, and shower gels (all which are inevitably washed down drains), yet studies by the US National Library of Medicine show that contributes to ocean acidification and is detrimental to algal growth.


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  • Commonly manufactured synthetic fragrances are added to an abundance of makeup products. The recipes for these fragrances may not even be revealed on legal “trade secret” bases. But the effects of a cherry scented lip gloss are extensive. Due to the unknown nature of their ingredients, many wastewater treatment plants are unable to break them down which sends them into sewage discharge (CVSkinlabs, 2016). Unable to quickly break down, they eventually accumulate in the tissues of fish and other invertebrates.


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  • BHA and BHT are popular cosmetic preservatives also found in moisturizers. BHA is noted by the Convention for the Protection of the Marine Environment of the North-East Atlantic because of its tendency to bioaccumulate within aquatic species and toxicity in altering the behavior of fish and shellfish (CVSkinlabs, 2016). Both have been found to cause genetic mutation within amphibians and are suspected hormone disruptors within humans (Botanical Trader, 2019).


Unfortunately, our makeup comes at a higher cost to the environment than just the product itself. Packaging poses a huge contributor to the immense pollution problem that litters our land and water already. ZeroWaste Europe reports that “in 2018 alone, 120 billion units of packaging were created by the cosmetic industry, a majority of which were unrecyclable” (Bridget March, Harper Bazaar). Think of an average makeup product: most likely packaged in plastic, containing wrappings if shipped, and comes with add-ons such as mirrors, brushes, and various inserts.


Clearly, the cost of our makeup ingredients is far reaching. How do we combat this overwhelming mess of resource depletion, chemical pollution, and single use packaging? As with most environmental issues, feasible and effective change is difficult to drive individually. The most effective stance we can take as consumers is to watch our wallets and put our money where our mouth is.


The best way for us to quickly ensure makeup products have been ethically and sustainably sourced is by looking for various logos- such as Fair Trade or Rainforest Alliance- on the packaging. When possible, we can go as far to shop package free (stores like Lush are taking these initiatives). We can also find and shop alternatives to popular makeup lines. Some more common brands going zero waste and applauded for their sustainability efforts in recent years are RMS, Axiology, and Elate Cosmetics. There are even Etsy or subscription sustainable makeup brands that are growing in popularity for those more dedicated to the cause such as Izzy Zero Waste Mascara, Keeping It Natural, and Clean Faced Cosmetics. For festivals and glitter fanatics, there are new brands including Ronald Britton, Eco Glitter Fun, and Bleach London.


Although it may feel daunting to realize the weight behind a swipe of lipstick or a dab of moisturizer, it’s important to remember that actions with the most impact will not stem from individual consumers. We must hold the makeup industry accountable for sustainably sourcing ingredients, ensuring the safety of their products for ourselves and other impacted life, and diminish or replace single-use packaging. But in the meanwhile please remember: it’s more than just mascara, it’s our planet hanging in balance.


Discussion Questions:

  • Reflecting on your routines, which seemingly other seemingly innocent actions do you take that may have deeper environmental consequences?

  • In which other ways do you think makeup and the industry could contribute to environmental harm?


Works Cited:


Adorn Cosmetics. “REAL COST OF COSMETICS: ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT.” Adorn Cosmetics, https://www.adorncosmetics.com.au/blog/post/environmental-impact/. Accessed 25 July 2021.


Botanical Trader. “Are Cosmetics Bad For The Environment?” Botanical Trader, 2019, https://botanicaltrader.com/blogs/news/how-your-beauty-products-are-killing-coral-reefs-turtles-rainforests-more. Accessed 25 July 2021.


CVSkinlabs. “7 Cosmetic Ingredients that are Bad for the Environment.” CVSkinlabs, 2016, https://cvskinlabs.com/7-cosmetic-ingredients-that-are-bad-for-the-environment/. Accessed 25 July 2021.


Kellogg, Kathryn. “17 Zero Waste Makeup Brands.” Going Zero Waste, 2018, https://www.goingzerowaste.com/blog/10-zero-waste-makeup-brands/. Accessed 25 July 2021.


March, Bridget. “Beauty and the environment: Eco-friendly choices made easier.” Harper's Bazaar, 2018, https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/beauty/a19848167/beauty-environmental-impact-sustainability/. Accessed 25 July 2021.

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